Picking up a board to deliberately dive into a bitter cold body of water in the middle of winter is no easy feat. Nor is exposing oneself to turbulent waves and currents while hazarding the possibility of being pummeled into a rocky seabed. Yet nearly 2.5 million visitors are drawn to Australia’s Surf Coast Shire each year, relishing in the sport of world-class surfing.
The sport of surfing has existed and evolved for centuries – spreading its roots across the world and making its mark on the land down under. The progression of the sport is largely accredited to Australia, particularly along its Surf Coast Shire, establishing surfing as a profession and refining the boards that are used today. The culture of this region is heavily influenced by the sport, with locals shaping their days around the tides to catch a single wave. The ocean acts as a remedy, both physically and psychologically – inevitably drawing nearly 90% of Australians to the country’s coastlines, and alluring travelers like myself to do the same. The call to surf varies from person to person, yet the common thread remains – those who live by the sea are drawn into it.
The ebb and flow of the sport is symbolic of mankind’s connection to the sea – a constant give and take. It requires significant patience and drive to endure and finesse the elements until reaching a mutualistic relationship. The assimilation and profound understanding between nature and surfer is essential in perfecting the sport. The waves can provide a smooth, tranquil experience or an aggressive, dynamic ride – shifting after each set. The photographs reflect this relationship between surfer and sea – with moments the two blend harmoniously into the rich, blue scene or starkly contrast one another as separate entities.
